A Million Steps for Scleroderma

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Since Pope Francis has designated 2025 a Jubilee Year and a Pilgrimage of Hope. I will try to add text regarding Hope as an important part of our lives. Hope is one thing that can help us through the darkest of times. We made it to the starting point, Grand Saint Bernard Pass after a bus drive from Prescott to Phoenix AZ, plane to Washington DC, Zurich, Geneva, train to Orsieres, and bus drive. Hurray! ~20 hours later. Arriving at the Pass we were awaken by the beautiful lake surround by the mountain. Dory and I posing. The Saint Bernard digs. Attitude 8114 ft. We concluded the day with a communal delicious meal with 30 pilgrims talking of the wonders of their via Francigena journey. Starting point tomorrow Dory and I will cross over Switzerland to Italy making the steep descent from the Summitt tracing the route taken by pilgrims and popes, common hikers, and leaders of countries even Napoleon’s army.  

A statue of Saint Bernado and a panoramic view captures us outside of the hospice and as I wander down the mule path along the small Saint Bernado Lake. We looked back at the hospice, a cross peeking out of the lake and the Saint Bernard statue. The Alps captures your breath and a small mountain goat playing in the rocks below. One could feel the impact of the descent on my thighs and knees. I pass through several small villages; Saint Remy - who hold via Francigena festivals and a stronghold for those who cross the pass; Saint Leonard; Saint Oyen and into the town of Etroubles. Etroubles embodies the enchanting environment. Via Francigena history is captured in the signage there reflecting on the importance to these villages.  We then proceeded to path following the Ru Neuf, an irrigation canal, until Echevennoz, a small village with parochial ostello - albergue/ hostel and a corner bed. Just Wondering is Hope just at the end of the rainbow or the next mountaintop?

Great day but feel the effects. Ultrea from Dory and  

 We had a good meal the night before with pilgrims from France and one from Australia. Well-rested although snoring continued. The pilgrims were asked to stay for breakfast; something I normally do not do since I like to start early. But we had a cup of coffee with bread and jam. The hike started out beautiful. Walking high in the Alps along the Ru Nuef, the irrigation channel. We looked down on the villages below. Uniquely we ran across a memorial of the Virgin Mary.  Eventually we made it to the town of Aosta, noted for Roman Ruins of a city started in 1 B.C. Dory and I landed in an Ostello ran by Cistern Nuns and fortunately we got a lovely single room looking up the mountains and, also, seeing a glimpse of a Romain arc. Later we were able to see the city main square and Romain arc and city being uncovered.   Unfortunately, we went to reserve a bed in the next stop but found out eight places to stay were booked. Surprise!! With the help of a couple of nuns over the course of a few hours we were able to book places to stay. Not ideal but a plan. Learn from yesterday, live for the day, and hope for a better tomorrow. Modified Einstein. Ultreia. Dory and Jim.               

We started late since we were working late on schedule and bookings. We started out walking in the opposite direction to reach a way to get over the highway crossing the city square. There were Romain ruins and some murals reflection the 1 A.D Roman. We immediately started hiking up the mountain. This time on the opposite side. We got up over 1000 ft before walking a horizontal path looking down below. The path was nice with an irrigation channel on its side. Vineyards were nestled along the path as well. Always seems inviting with clear cold water running to stick one’s feet in. We even passed a rundown castle. Looking down at Nus, one can see into the valley below as the mountains seem to be getting lower. Nice and steep. Dory mentioned to me that although she not just optimistic but hopeful. Krista Tipplet, the writer, said “For me …optimism sounds like wishful thinking. Hope as a force and as a resource is realty based. It sees the darkness and takes it seriously. It sees the possibly of good and redemption and takes that serious and it’s a choice. An action that one needs to put into practice.”

Ultreia. Dory and Jim.           

Because of hostel availability, we had to make an adjustment to our schedule to find accommodations. We find a place to stay in Hône. We took a bus from Nus to Verres and got back onto the Via Francigena. Although the mountains were smaller, they were still impressive walking in the valley.  A beautiful hike along the river and amongst a few small towns. Several signs were posted along the trail, walks to inspire the world! A nice old church whose front door was open to see inside but protection by glass doors so as not to allow access. We experienced seeing a unique preserved Romain bridge, walked through the pastures before arriving at the village of Hône. But before Hone we could see in the distance a specular castle. As we got closer, we approached a church. Although many churches have been closed, to our surprise this one was open. It was the Parish of Saint Giorgio. The church was at least the third erected on the site. There were glass panel allowing us to see the remnants of two previous churches. Earlier reports say it may have been as old as 1413 with modifications in 1711 and latest 1897. On the altar was a detailed statute of Saint George fighting the dragon. Beautiful ceiling painting as well as one of the Madonna of Mercy. Dory also lit candle for family, friends, sacred Heart Parish and of course, the Scleroderma Foundation of California. If you can, support the foundation and Hope for a Cure. Aristotle said: “Hope is a waking dream.” 

Ultreia. Dory and Jim         

Slept in until 8 AM, packed and headed to a church up the hill at the next town. Thanks to the Catholic Map app I identified where the church and mass was. A lovely small 15 century church located next to a fancy hotel. The attendance was sparse, about 20 people. Hopefully it does not shut down. After mass, we came right to the trail. The trail started out next to a man- made irrigation canal with many stone canals coming down from the mountains. The trail mainly followed the river until we reach Mont-Saint-Martin. The trail mainly followed the river but deviated through several towns passing by some old churches but unfortunately were not open even of Sunday. As we came around a corner to my surprise was a small Arch way with a lava like stone walkway. Interesting. Next we made it to Mont-Saint-Martin where we came across a beautiful Romain bridge. This time amazing. The next miles were uneventful until reaching Ivrea. Although stopped at a picnic area to have a snack by the river. We found our Ostello next to the river. Named “Ostello del Canoe”. (Because, there was a competitive kayaking circuit, where people were testing their skills.) Performed my daily routine of a shower, washing clothes and doing some stretching before relaxing getting a soda and watching the river and a duck diving for fish. Across the ways was a big cathedral. 

Ultreia. Dory and Jim.

Left albergue early at 6:30 am with several other pilgrims getting up early as well. Some guides recommend over 37 kilometers but I decided on 13+.  It took awhile to get out of city limits and we went right into pastures. We tried the map app several times during the day but reception was poor. Worked out fine because there was via Francigena signage that pointed the way. Passed through a forest of aligned trees before going through several small towns. In these small towns, there was a billboard recognizing those who passed away during the year. A Roman ruin popped up in the mid of nowhere. There were some grapes for the picking. Getting closer to Viverone there was a lake in the distance. Made it to Vicerone but again no internet. Found out B & B staying at was up a hill. Ugh! And place was closed until I got a message through. The B&B looked “third world”,  but appeared clean and had a bed. In the evening, we had another pilgrim. Interestingly the pilgrim was a Italian priest on vacation hiking to various churches. Learned to cook macaroni in a microwave. Aristotle: Hope is an awaking dream. 

Ultrea Dory and Jim.

Left early between 6 and 6:30 in AM in order to beat the heat. Down the hill I went. I was that pleased that my Wi-Fi was working and got right on the trail. Most of the day was going from pasture to pasture. I enjoyed that the irrigation canals. To my amazement I saw two pilgrims up ahead. Two senior Hungarian women on the via Francigena. We sampled pomegranates off the tree. Delicious. Just after meeting the two pilgrims, we ran cross sunflower fields. Mood uplifting! Another view of the path with a flowing irrigation canal and, along side the path, a nice pilgrim mural. Nice and calming. Onward in a backward route we crossed the highway and headed toward our destination Santhia. Santhia is a small town with the Omnious Church and city government building in the center. Upon a phone call at the cafe two people came to greet us and pointed out our accommodations. This a municipal donation Ostello. Great welcoming. We visit the large church named after Saint Agatha. A Grand church for such a small town. We lit candles. A market was close by to stock up for lunch and snacks tomorrow. While hanging out near the city center, I was asking questions about the city when the person asked me if I wanted to meet the MayorI Of course, we had a photo with her after explaining the Scleroderma cause. I am reminded of the song Imagine by John Lennon: “You may say I am a dreamer, but I am not the only one. I hope someday you’ll join us. And the world will live as one.” 

Ultreia Dory and Jim

Wow, who knew there were so many rice fields in Italy. But think about it as risotto is a popular dish in this area. Another specialty is cheeses. Instead of macaroni and cheese it is risotto cheese. We started walking with the Hungarian women but went ahead. Wrong move. Got in zone and went a ways before noticing they were not behind us. There was a turn I missed. To top it off my internet keeps dropping off. Trouble. Listening to Dory we kept on swimming headed to a turn through the rice field. We got so far before we realized we would have to go through the rice field to get back on path. So there we went through the field and up through ditch to get back on the path. Whew. Don’t want to do that again. Too much excitement. Once on path it was still mile after mile of rice patties with some people harvesting or later someone said they may be catching frogs. (Delicacy?) We also came upon a lovely small church dedicated to Mary Madera and the Francigena. Vercelli is a fairly large city so there was a fair amount of trekking before getting to the city town center. Never saw the ladies. Once there tried to get directions but best bet was to find a restaurant / bar to get internet and locate my Ostello. Waited for the Ostello to open at one of the city squares. Two big statutes. When the Ostello opened we found the ladies there. The Ostello is nicely running by a nice couple from the States, i.e. Louisiana. How about that? They also offered dinner and breakfast. During the evening we all shared Camino stories. Grand. Dory liked Emily Dickinson quote: “Hope is the thing with feathers that perches in the soul — and sings the tune without words — and never stops at all.” 

Ultreia. Dory and Jim. Don’t forget to donate to the Scleroderma cause!

Wonderful hospitarios. Stayed for breakfast as did the Hungarian ladies. Juice, bread with jam, and left over apple crisp. Left in the rain. Wandered out of town into the rice fields. Day of rice and rain. I mentioned Italians must really like risotto. Ladies took a photo of me and my make shift rain gear. Stopped to figure out how to get my water bladder working while the ladies took off. Then the thunder and lightning. Rice fields are not a good place to be. We took cover from the rain when we reached a small town of Palestro. Dory was in her glory. As soon as the rain died down, we were off. Out of town the path did not seem to have been used much. If you were not soaked before you were now. Got Robbio and started to search for the Ostello. Kept looking back but never saw the ladies again. They were off to the next town. Got to the municipal Ostello and got Dry and warm. So long fellow pilgrims, see you in Roma. In the square where I stayed, I found a Michelin star restaurant. Unfortunately it was closed I ate delicious pizza whose owner had a likely for route 66, California and Arizona. Hope in Hebrew means a “cord or attachment”. Everyone needs to hold on to something in their lives. 

Ultriea. Dory and Jim

Jim and Dory have traveled over 250,000 steps!

Started early today anticipating rain again. Before leaving Robbio there was a small church which was known to house pilgrims in the past. We then reached the small village of Nicorvo after about 3 miles. Soon enough we reached a pasture with tire tracks and some gravel which eventually turned into a tall grassy path. So much for dry shoes. There were us and the herons who policed the fields. There was a hiccup with a sign or so missing, but I had gotten the gps map working. Rice Fields on rice fields with an occasional corn. When getting closer to our destination of Mortara we saw a lovely via Francigena mural indicating km to Rome and Canterbury. When we reached Mortara we headed to our Ostello. We stopped to see one of the churches and we noticed the two Hungarian ladies. Not sure how I caught up. We talked with them and I decided to go to the next town with them that is with her donkey and dog and artist.  After we made a 2 km trip to Basilica where they had just start mass. We stay to get the blessing. Quite amazing statutes. (Photo 8). Most of the history is captured in the churches. When mass was over it was dinner and a gelato. During the hike we saw the sun peeking through, hoping that glitter turn into a bright sky. Time for bed. Lights out. 

Ultriea Dory and Jim.

It was easy to get out of the city and into the pastures, walking the path along a large irrigation canal. Came across a large concrete cross out of a large cemetery. Several small villages were passed, but no cafe or bar for my orange drink and pastry fix. More rice and corn fields but less of them. Closer to Pavia we approached a wide river. We walked alongside the river for some time. There was a street mirror and one of the ladies took an unusual picture of us. In Pavia we are housed next to a small church and conveniently offers mass in the evening. A longer day tomorrow. Pavia had the closed main city streets for shoppers, mainly tourists. In the center of the city was a huge basilica. Old and battered on the outside, but the interior was totally redone. Robert Schuller: “Let your hope, not your hurts shape your future.” 

Ultreia Dory and Jim.

Early to rise. Worked our way through city. It was about a mile or two before a trial. Up we went. Second hill was even worst. But as we said before you can not get the amazing views if you don’t pay price of hiking up a hill. I missed a couple of turns but got back on track. Then came a dangerous downhill that was not maintain with a a lot of foliage across the path on slippery rocks. Whew. Then road walking until we got closer to Lucca where there was a gravel bike path. Lucca is a beautiful walled city. Picture perfect. Even a restaurant with a pilgrim’s menu. Yum. Asking myself today how is hope differ from wishful thinking. Has it something to with belief and faith? Is it an internal spark that propels us to action? Is there a transformation from a deep belief. Hope is a bridge from desire to realization. Hope inspires mobilization, inspiration and transform. Communal hope seems to amplify. Francigena Ultreia Dory and Jim. Don’t forget to donate to the Scleroderma Foundation of California.

Short day walking on roads and bike path out of the city of Lucca into Altopascio. Captured couple of photos of the wall as we walking out of the city. Stop at a couple of small villages but largely industrial out Lucca. Walk with two Italian ladies starting out on the via Francigena in Lucca. Arrive early awaiting for Ostello to open. Gathering of pilgrims good. Although a large part of the hike was through an industrial area, it was FLAT! Since I live in Arizona I wondered about native Indians and their views on hope. There is a website on hope and native Americans but a story struck out at me was the Jumping Mouse, a legendary native Indian story. I got the great of it but when I get back to Arizona I need to read it’d. Ultreia Dory and Jim.

Suppose to rain. So putting on hiking bag wrapper. Long day but relative flat except last 1/2 mile getting up the hill to San Miniato. A little of everything happened. The first town we went through had a large running race that took people on the Via Francigena path. So it was us being passed by runners. The second town had an art and craft show again right on the Via Francigena. It was a winding entry into a small village before San Miniato before our climb. Of course once at the top the path to the ostello took us down into the valley. Old hostel. Manager said 4th century? Looking out of my ostello window and family party. All the pilgrims were well exhaust from the hike today. Today we try a pilgrims meal. Unfortunately when bring out Dory for communal meal she was not to be found. She must of come undone when taking off the bag on route. So Sad! Hope is that a young child find her! Ultreia Jim.

First light breakfast and started late. I feel a sinus infection beginning. Started to take antibiotics. Day was brighten some what by the sunflower on the balcony. The trail was amazing; we climb hill after hill seeing a picturesque views. Wow the views fantastic! Met a French woman who had the same pace as me. We pushed ourselves over the hills especially the last long hill into Gambassi Terme. It seems that all the towns are on a hill. Gambassi Terme was a town you might see in a magazine for Tuscany. Sat in a park listening to live music as it was played in the square. Very nice donation ostello. Stopped in small church to light candles for family, friends and scleroderma. Hospitality was great. There to please. Only pilgrim. Nice. Still regretting losing Dory but pushing forward. We can not change what happened so hope must focus on the future. We can drown in hopelessness but what Dory would say we need to swim toward hope. Ultreia. Jim. Don’t forget to donate to the scleroderma foundation of California.

Short but challenging down from Gambassi over several hills before up to San Gimignano. Sinus acting up. Started with sunflowers in the hallway. Many picturistic views on top of hills. A lot more pilgrims on the trail. A lot more seem to be on bikes. Bikes Formed a line along the narrow roads. Seems dangerous? Then walled city of San Gimignano. One of the top touristy places on the route. Walked towards the two towers that we saw from our room in Gambassi. I was wondering who is attributed to identifying scleroderma. Who would have know it was Hippocrates. A Italian doctor gave more description in 1700s and name came about in 1836 by the Italian Fantonetti. Two decades and no cure? Ultreia. Jim

Let early to get out of city still congested from sinus infection. Picturistic walk observing ripe grape and olives. Italian villas off in the distance. More animals in pasture cows and sheep. Ran into a bit of a problem when I could not find a bridge navigator said was there and wasn’t?? Look closely at maps at that point and found and bridge was further done stream. Thank God. Got back on track. Walked past a castle which was being renovated. Then Followed a walking / bike path into Monteriggioni. Did I forget to mention another hard climb to the wall city? Much Smaller than Lucca and San Gimignano. Ostello relative full with some same faces but a group of younger Italians only gonna few stages to Siena. Group photo at a communal dinner. Spread awareness of Scleroderma. Italians, French, Austrians at dinner. Thought about “What does hope for a cure mean?” Living without fear of death or rearranging your life because of a diagnosis one can not control. Cure means the ultimate treatment goal. Cure is a remedy that once it’s gone it wouldn’t come back. A cure also means peace of mind. If we don’t have a cure do we know the treatments. Treatments of medicines, procedures or therapies and combinations. Scleroderma symptoms are numerous such that is recommended that the patient become an integral part of the treatment problem. Talking and coordination are vital. Ultreia. Jim.

Not a particularly long walk but experienced a unique castle, race horse, a memorial, and a wonderable cathedral. Hike was mainly a dirt road until one got to the city and city streets. There were horses eating some hay next to a home race track. What type of racing not sure. Of course a nice steep hill. A number of people praised the city of Siena but I found it massive and confusing. Walked city and many tourists. Confusing with narrow streets and tall buildings. Can not get any sense of direction without Google maps. Maps guided the way through the walled city’s entry and to the brand new ostello. Market close by. Gelato dessert. The cathedral was massive and ornate. Inside grand with Italian art including statutes of saints by Michelangelo. My hope reflect comes from the Siena cathedral. A floor mosaic depicts Hope. (Photo) Hope does not disappoint. Catholics characterize Hope as an anchor. Ultreia Jim.

Quietly got of town while the sun rose. Went through several arched gates before descending into the valley and farmland. Saw the “inspire the world” sign for the first time in a while. There were also Roman museum pieces scattered as we got closer to Pont D’Arbia. Plowed farmland after farmland. Weather nice but hot. Getting out early to avoid the heat over 80F. The evening was enjoyable with the small city celebrating harvest with food and entertainment. Highlight evening. Great food and music. Thought: what animals do you associate with hope? Dove, firefly, crane, phoenix, seagull, and butterfly. 

Ultriea Jim.

Early start with Canadian couple who we met last night. Temperature, as yesterday, expected to reach 88F. As the sun was rising, we could see a misty layer in the area below us. This day has rolling hills. Several wineries were passed during the day. We ended stopping at one and ate a snack in the courtyard. Onward up and down. Last hill to town about 2 miles up. Relatively new ostello. Another town celebration tonight. Saturday of course but poor pilgrims need to go 19 miles tomorrow and temperature will be up to 88 F. I thought I look to songs that deal with Hope. A couple that I like were “Hope” sing by Arlo Parks; “A Change is going to Come” sang by Sam Cooke; “Carry On” by Norah Jones; “Don’t Give Up” Peter Gabriel. 

Ultreia. Jim

We knew it was going to be a long day. I had my backpack transferred with the projected 20+ mile journey. This was a day of hills. One walled city after the next. All fortresses. We are arrived at Radicofani. One interesting event along the way is that we meet several hunters and heard shots throughout the day. We even saw several deers early in the field. One on the run even passed in front of me on the path surprising a hunter. Reportedly provided protection for the via Francigena between Tuscan and next province Lazio. Saw an old wine crushing machine. Did I say again there were hills. Wow! Very challenging. Prehaps toughest on the via Francigena. I found these verbal illustrations about hope. Hope is a “porcupine hugging a cactus”. Emily Dickinson: Hope is the thing with feathers that perches in the soul and sings the tune without words and never stops at all.” There is an art painting by Watts titled Hope. But I was not inspired? What you think? I forgot about Frank Sinatra’s High Hopes which I enjoy. I’ll be singing the tune on the hike tomorrow. 

Ultreia Jim

Misty start down from the mountain. Almost 4 miles. The nice views were not seen for a couple of hours. We caught the sun trying to poke out of the clouds. We heard the sounds of gun fire throughout the morning as well as saw a couple of hunters. A cinder road was mainly used except half way when we had to walk the road. We did have the option of a second route but 4 kilometers more. Fortunately, there was an off-road paths. Before town there was a nice outdoor store as we sat down and talked as other pilgrims joined in. The places we were staying did not open until 3PM. Of course, the next town was on another hill. Climbed we did into the city. Did you know there is an Alfred Tibor’s statute of hope in Oregon in support of cancer? Women releasing three dove; man, woman, and child. 

Ultreia Jim.b

Day off. Getting organized for upcoming last 100 kilometers.  I had lost my toiletry bag, rain pancho, etc. Fortunately the are Chinese run convenience stores more robust in selection then Dollar Tree.  You can find almost anything in them. There was also a Flea Market! I brought a light rain jacket. I roames the city getting supplies. I also visited a nice small castle, the smallest I have seen.  The town had a nice cathedral with catacombs.  The view was great.  Rain started in late afternoon and continued off and on. Tomorrow is suppose to rain as well. Ugh.  Hope: The catholic jubilee 2025 is to inspire hope with those with hardships.  Hope is not meaningless wondering but has a definitive purpose.  As a pilgrim it is easy to take the road most traveled.  It is hard when the path is not clear.  Ultreia Jim  Don't forget to donate to Scleroderma Foundation of California.