JIM'S 2026 A Million Steps for Scleroderma JOURNEY

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🎉 HURRAH — ONE MILLION STEPS ACCOMPLISHED! 🎉

Yesterday, we officially completed the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Route — and, almost unbelievably, reached ONE MILLION STEPS along the way!

Today was a little different. With our walking adventure essentially complete, we decided to spend the day touring Kii-Tanabe including the Beach before heading toward the airport tomorrow. And once again, we were blessed with beautiful weather — no rain in sight!

We had a few things on our list:

1. Souvenir hunting.

I was determined to find the Dream Pilgrim T-shirt I had seen in Nachi. Unfortunately, no luck. Apparently, it was destined to remain a dream!

2. A stop at the temple.

There was lots of activity as everyone was preparing for the Benkei Festival. The festival celebrates the local connection to Benkei, a legendary warrior, and his friendship and loyalty following an encounter with his friend on a bridge. The celebration includes performances, dancing, and other events. It reminded us a little of the stories surrounding Friar Tuck — just with a Japanese twist!

3. A stop at the beach.

We walked along a large beach area divided by sections of breakwater. The festival preparations were happening here too, adding even more energy to the town.  The beach was relatively vacant of people but relaxing. 

4. Laundry!

After all these miles, clean clothes have become a pretty important part of the daily routine. 😂

5. A good evening meal.

Because after walking 7.3 miles around town, we had definitely earned it!

The walking around Kii-Tanabe and seeing the sights pushed us over that magical million-step mark.  

These million steps have been a real challenge — even more demanding than some of our previous pilgrimages. The Kumano Kodo is filled with steep climbs and descents, and the terrain often meant it took us about one and a half times longer to cover the same distance we might normally walk on other trails. And with that extra time came plenty of extra effort.

Yes, there was a lot of complaining along the way. 😂

There were tired legs, sore bodies, steep hills, and more than a few moments when we wondered why we had signed up for this!

But today, standing at 1,000,002 steps, the difficulty fades a little into the background.

What remains is the accomplishment.  As we saw a long line of pilgrims waiting at the bus to the start of the Kumano Kodo trail.  

For Sara and myself, this journey has always been about more than miles and steps. It has been about challenging ourselves, adapting when things got difficult, and continuing forward — one step at a time.

And we hope sharing this journey with the scleroderma community has provided a little encouragement along the way.

One million steps.  One incredible journey.

Tomorrow, we head toward the airport — but tonight, we’re celebrating.

Hurrah! We did it! ❤️

Another big day on Jim & Sara’s Japan Million Step Journey — and today brought a very special milestone.

We had an early start, joining a backpacking crowd on the bus to Takijiri, where most everyone was beginning their own Kumano Kodo journey.

For me, there was an especially important mission ahead. I had just two more stamps out of the 41 required to complete my official Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

The trail started right from the bus stop — and so did the climbing! A big climb right out of the gate. Once I reached the top, I found that the directions for continuing along the trail weren’t as clear as I would have liked. Rather than take a chance, I decided the safe choice was to follow the road route.

And climb we did. And climbed some more!

The old road provided some wonderful views of the surrounding mountains and the valleys below. It was a pleasant day for walking, and eventually I reached the next stamp at a beautiful rest area overlooking the countryside.

What a view!

After taking some time to enjoy the scenery, it was time to turn around. And that meant more than an hour and a half of descending. Eventually, I made it back down to the valley road, crossed the bridge, and reached the location of the final stamp.

41 out of 41 — stamp collection complete!

That moment was pretty special. After all those miles, climbs, descents, and days on the trail, I had officially completed my Kumano Kodo stamp collection.

From there, we headed back to the center to receive my Kumano Kodo Certificate of Completion.

And there was an added treasure. Along with the certificate, I was able to purchase a Yatagarasu on a Camino scallop shell. Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow, is a symbol of guidance for pilgrims — a fitting reminder of the journey and all the roads that brought us here.

Of course, we had to get the photo at the center!

Whew.

Today wasn’t just another day of walking or another 28,000 steps. It was a milestone — and a reminder that every step counts.

For everyone in the scleroderma community, we hope this journey continues to be a reminder that progress doesn’t always happen in one giant leap. Sometimes it’s one step, one hill, one difficult stretch, and one day at a time.

Today, we reached the top of another mountain — literally and figuratively.

Now it’s time for Sara and me to relax!

Jim & Sara
Japan Million Step Journey
Walking with purpose for the scleroderma community

An early morning start today. We were warmly welcomed by our hosts and enjoyed a lively discussion with our fellow guests, who came from Japan, Germany, China, and Russia. It was fascinating to share stories and perspectives from so many different places. We also enjoyed a wonderful home-cooked meal together.

The morning was overcast, but thankfully there was no rain. This was my last time hiking in Japan with my backpack, which made the day feel especially meaningful.

The trail took us through beautiful mountain scenery and lush forests, with several waterfalls along the route. The cool, cloudy weather made for comfortable hiking, although the downhills still took plenty of time and effort.

After 13.5 miles and 31,800 steps, we finally finished the hike—tired, but very satisfied. Another memorable day in the mountains of Japan, and a fitting way to finish my backpacking hikes here.

Good night.  Sara & Jim

Today we officially began the countdown to ONE MILLION STEPS!

We started at Hosshinmon-oji, walking backward along the Kumano Kodo toward Chikatsuyu-oji. The day started with a little rain, and then the rain decided it was going to stay with us for the entire journey. 🌧️

Poncho on. Poncho off. Poncho back on.

By the end, it didn’t really matter — we were soaked through and through!

As we got closer to Hongu, the trail became much busier. We passed more and more pilgrims heading toward Hongu — Japanese, Chinese, English-speaking travelers, Europeans, and several tour groups. It was amazing to see so many people from different countries sharing this ancient pilgrimage route.

The rain may have slowed us down, but it didn’t stop us.

And that’s what this journey continues to be about: putting one foot in front of the other, one step at a time, for the scleroderma community. ❤️

Today we added another 31,100 steps to our journey.

921,000 STEPS DOWN.
79,000 STEPS TO GO.
ONE MILLION IS GETTING VERY CLOSE! 👣🔥

We finally arrived at our wonderful hostel, where a warm shower felt absolutely heavenly. And then our wonderful hostess told us she is making dinner for us tonight. After a day this wet, warm food and a dry bed sound pretty close to paradise!

Tired. Wet. Grateful. And still walking.

Ultreia, Jim & Sara!
Onward! Keep going! ❤️👣

Rain was in the forecast today. Anyone surprised? ☔

Thankfully, the rain mostly held off, and I never had to put on my rain pouch. I caught a bus to Hosshinmon-oji and then set off on foot toward Kumano Hongu Taisha.

This was actually my third time hiking this section of the Nakahechi trail. This time, though, I had a special mission: collecting the pilgrimage stamps along the way. I collected six stamps before reaching Hongu just before noon.

It is easy to understand why I keep coming back to this part of the trail. It is one of the beautiful sections of the Nakahechi pilgrimage route, with that wonderful combination of forest, history, spirituality, and simply putting one foot in front of the other.

And then came a very special moment.

The rain started almost immediately after I reached the Kumano Hongu visitor center. Inside, a wonderful center attendant recognized me and helped me receive my third Dual Pilgrim status and certificate.

This time, there was an extra-special touch: the certificate was printed on what they described as official Japanese paper. A beautiful reminder that this journey has become more than just miles and steps. It has become a collection of moments, people, places, and memories.

The Sound of the Drum

As part of the recognition, I went up to the temple and participated in the drum ceremony.

The drumbeat felt like a punctuation mark at the end of this part of the pilgrimage.

But the more I thought about it, the more meaningful that single drumbeat became.

The sound announces: I have arrived.

It marks a threshold — a physical and symbolic transition from the journey to this sacred place.

It is also an offering of sound. In Japanese religious traditions, ritual sound and percussion can be part of worship itself.

And there was something particularly meaningful about having an attendant there to guide the ceremony. It transformed the act from simply striking a drum into participating in a ritual with history and purpose.

One beat.

One arrival.

One moment to pause and recognize how far the journey has taken us.

And Sara Was There, Too

Of course, Sara was right there beside me — doing her own important part of this pilgrimage.

While my feet are carrying us across Japan, Sara continues to make sure that people hear about scleroderma.

That is the heart of our Japan Million Steps Journey.

Every mile, every step, every mountain, every rainy morning, every conversation, and every pilgrimage stamp gives us another opportunity to bring awareness to a disease that too many people still don’t know enough about.

We are walking not only across Japan, but also for our scleroderma community.

Today we reached another milestone:

890,000 steps.

Only about 110,000 steps to one million.

The finish line is getting very real.

But perhaps today’s drumbeat offered another reminder: sometimes the important thing isn’t just reaching the destination. It’s stopping for a moment, listening to the sound, looking around, and recognizing what the journey itself has meant.

Tomorrow, we keep walking.

One step at a time.

For awareness.
For community.
For everyone living with scleroderma.
And for all those still waiting for better answers.

巡礼者のジムとサラより、おやすみなさい。

Good night from pilgrims Jim & Sara. 🇯🇵🥾❤️

Another day on the Kumano Kodo — and another day of going **backwards! 😄 Today we retraced our route from Koguchi to Ukegawa.

Rain was in the forecast for much of the day, but thankfully the rain held off. Instead, we were treated to beautiful morning mist hanging over the mountains. 🌫️⛰️

The hike started with another **long, long climb**, but eventually the trail leveled out and gave our legs a bit of a break. We passed at least a dozen people heading in the opposite direction. It appeared to be a group tour, with either English or Australian accents — always fun to encounter fellow travelers out on the trail.

After finishing the hike, we had to wait for the bus to our final destination. Once we arrived in Hongu, we discovered the albergue wasn’t open yet, so we decided to make another trip back to the Onsen to get a **Kumano stamp. Mission accomplished! ✅

Of course, that meant… another long wait for the bus. 😂

Along the way, we met a friendly older English couple and an older Japanese pilgrim. These unexpected encounters really add something special to this journey. Everyone has a story, and somehow the trail keeps bringing us together.

By the end of the day, we had logged **30,500 steps** — another big day toward our million-step goal!

For those of us living with scleroderma, days like this remind us that the journey isn’t always about speed or distance. Sometimes it’s about listening to our bodies, taking the next step, resting when we need to, and celebrating the fact that we kept moving forward.

**Another challenging day, another beautiful day, another 30K steps. 💪❤️

**Ultreia\!**

We’re getting closer and closer to that one-million-step goal, and today gave us another reminder that every step counts — especially when some of those steps involve climbing nearly 2,750 feet straight up!

Today’s trek took us from Nachisan to Koguchi, following an ancient road through the mountains. It was a beautiful section of the trail, but definitely not an easy one.

The trail seemed to have a little bit of everything designed to test our footing: stones, tree roots, wood debris, twigs, and plenty of uneven terrain. Going uphill was challenging, but the downhill sections were the real test. Sometimes getting back down the mountain requires just as much concentration — and perhaps a little more humility — than getting up it!

We started the morning in the rain. Fortunately, it eventually settled down, although the weather couldn’t quite make up its mind. That meant the familiar routine of putting on the rain poncho, taking it off, putting it back on, and repeating the process. Apparently, even our rain gear is getting its steps in.

One of the memorable sounds along the trail today was the constant calling of the crows. In Japanese culture, crows have an interesting and respected place. They are associated with intelligence and keen eyesight and are sometimes regarded as guides. The legendary Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow, is said to have guided Emperor Jimmu during his journey through Japan.

It felt fitting to have these birds overhead as we made our way along this ancient route.

We also encountered substantially more people on the trail today than we had on some of the earlier sections. Interestingly, everyone we met was traveling in the opposite direction — toward Nachi. Since this is our second time making this journey, it was fun to see the trail from a different perspective and encounter fellow travelers along the way.

Eventually, we made it down the mountain and into Koguchi — tired, wet, and very ready for the simple luxuries of civilization.

A good shower. Good food. A bed. At the end of a 12.8-mile mountain day, those three things can feel pretty close to five-star accommodations! And then there’s the bigger picture.

840,000 steps. We’re walking these miles through Japan, but we’re also walking them with the scleroderma community in our hearts and minds. Every step is a reminder of the strength, perseverance, and determination of people living with scleroderma, along with the families, friends, caregivers, researchers, clinicians, and advocates who continue pushing forward.

We’re grateful to everyone who is following along with us and helping give these steps meaning.

Only 160,000 steps to go.

Tomorrow, we keep walking.

Happy Trails,
Jim & Sara

Today was another beautiful walking day in Japan — good weather, no rain, and a chance to revisit some very special places around Nachi.

Sara and I decided to retrace our steps and return to several of the sights we h visited before: Tafuke-oji, Nachi-no-Otaki Waterfall, Nachisan Seiganto-ji, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and the UNESCO-listed Kamikura-jinja Shrine in Shingu, which is near our minshuku.

There’s something special about seeing a place for a second time. The first visit is about taking it all in. The second time, you notice the details — the sounds, the scenery, the steps, the quiet moments, and maybe even how your body feels after everything you’ve already asked of it.

And today, Sara was the star. ⭐

This journey has never been just about counting steps. The million-step goal gives us something tangible to work toward, but the real story is the journey itself — continuing to explore, continuing to move, and sharing these experiences with all of you in the scleroderma community.

Some days are easier than others. Some climbs feel longer than they look. But every step adds up.

Today, those steps carried us through ancient paths, beautiful temples and shrines, and some truly spectacular scenery.

17,300 steps today. Another 17,300 steps toward a million.

And, as always, we’re grateful to have this community walking alongside us — whether you’re taking thousands of steps, a few hundred, or simply cheering us on from wherever you are.

One step at a time. ❤️

Day 36: 7.3 miles | 17.3K steps

📸 Photos: Sara takes center stage today!

We discovered something exciting about the Kumano Kodo that we didn’t know before!

There is a Kumano Kodo completion certificate available to pilgrims who collect 41 designated stamps in the official stamp book. The book costs just 100 yen. Until now, we had been focused on completing the requirements for the Dual Pilgrim recognition, so this was a wonderful surprise.

Since Sara and I still have plenty of miles to cover on our journey to one million steps, we decided: why not go for the 41 stamps too? So today was Day 2 of our stamp-collecting adventure! 🐾

Our morning started in Nachi, where we set out to find the designated stamps. Naturally, the rain decided to join us! ☔Fortunately, it eventually stopped, giving us a beautiful window to continue our hike.

Along the way, I ended up following a Japanese pilgrim, and we stayed together for part of the journey. There’s something special about sharing the trail with fellow pilgrims, even when you don’t speak much of the same language. The path does plenty of talking for you.

Today we collected five stamps:

⛩️ Ichinono-oji

⛩️ Takijiri-oji — we didn’t complete this one today, so it’s on tomorrow’s list!

⛩️ Hamanomiya-oji

⛩️ Fudarakusan

⛩️ Kokuji-oji

These small shrines and sacred sites are such an important part of the Kumano Kodo. They remind us that this isn’t simply a hike from one place to another. For centuries, pilgrims have walked these forests and mountain paths seeking reflection, renewal, and connection with something larger than themselves.

Not a bad day’s hike for Jim and Sara! 🐾❤️

The weather stayed calm and overcast while we were out, and thankfully the rain waited until we were finished before returning for the rest of the day.

Whew! Another 29,300 steps toward one million. 👣🇯🇵

Tomorrow: back to the trail, back to the stamps, and one more step closer to the finish!

Have a great evening from Japan!

Jim & Sara 🐾❤️🇯🇵

Sara and I made it from Owase to Shingu in the early morning. Our fellow traveler, the Hollander, headed off in the opposite direction toward Holland, while we decided to use Shingu as our home base for the next four days.

After dropping off our baggage, we spent the day exploring this beautiful and historic city. And best of all — no rain! ☀️

We started a new stamp book and visited several of Shingu’s incredible landmarks:

⛩️ Koya-aka Slope — A scenic historic mountain path that gives you a glimpse of the ancient pilgrimage routes of the Kii Peninsula.

⛩️ Kumano Hayatama Taisha Grand Shrine — One of the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano, known for its beautiful vermilion buildings and its deep connection to the Kumano pilgrimage tradition.

⛩️ Asuka-ninja Shrine — A small and atmospheric shrine tucked into the historic landscape, offering a quieter look at the area’s spiritual heritage.

⛰️ Kamikura-jinja Shrine — Perched high on the mountainside and reached by a very steep stone staircase. The reward is the enormous sacred Gotobiki-iwa rock and sweeping views over Shingu.

🌊 Kumano-gawa River Boat Tour Center — The starting point for traditional boat journeys along the sacred Kumano-gawa River, following a historic pilgrimage route through the forested mountains and beautiful river scenery.

It was another wonderful day of walking, exploring, learning, and taking in the spiritual history of the Kumano Kodo.

Next, Sara and I are heading back to Nachisan Temple and Shrine for another glimpse of the spectacular Nachi Falls. We’re looking forward to seeing this special place again. 🙏

Our journey continues, one step at a time — and every step is dedicated to bringing awareness to scleroderma and supporting everyone in the scleroderma community. ❤️

Please don’t forget to donate to the Scleroderma Foundation of California. Every contribution helps support the fight against this disease and the people and families affected by it.

Thank you for continuing to walk this journey with us.

Take care, God Bless, and keep stepping! 👣❤️

Jim & Sara

Good morning from the road!

We started our new rental-car adventure bright and early. Perhaps a little too early! We were ready to get moving, but Temple 38, Endo-ji, doesn’t open until 8:00 a.m., so we decided to use the time wisely and drive ahead.

And drive we did.

Today took us through Temples 39 through 48 of the Shikoku pilgrimage. Ten temples in one day, with plenty of miles and nearly 14,000 steps added to our Million Steps for Scleroderma journey.

Ten Temples, Ten Stories

Each temple seemed to offer something different to notice and remember.

At Temple 39, Enko-ji, we found traditions connected with eye washing and eye disease, along with Buddha imagery, red turtles, and beautifully maintained gardens.

Temple 40, Kanjizai-ji, brought eight Buddha deities and astrological signs.

At Temple 41, Ryuko-ji, we noticed the guardian dogs and flowers. Temple 42, Butsumoku-ji, had its connections with livestock and an impressive roof. At Temple 43, Meisekiji, we discovered a lifesaver, a Buddha statue, and a legendary well.

Then came Temple 44, Daiho-ji, with its striking gold-bronze statue and five-story pagoda.

Temple 45, Iwaya-ji, was especially memorable. High in the mountains, about 700 meters above sea level, it offered a meditation cave, birds, and plants we hadn’t encountered earlier in our journey. Getting there was another reminder that this pilgrimage isn’t simply about counting steps. It’s about putting one foot in front of the other and seeing where the journey takes you.

At Temple 46, Joruri-ji, we found a feet statue, an old juniper, and preaching stones.

Temple 47, Yasaka-ji, may have had the most fascinating surprises of the day — including a basement containing about 800 small Buddha statues, imagery representing paradise and hell, a “helping hand” at the tenth step from the bottom, and the Houinto tower.

Finally, we reached Temple 48, Sairin-ji, the “garden of happiness.” After a long day on the road and on our feet, that name seemed particularly appropriate.

A Quiet Pilgrimage

We continued to see pilgrims along the way, but there were only a small scattering of them today. There is something special about seeing another pilgrim appear on the road — a quiet reminder that although everyone may be traveling at a different pace, we are all moving toward something.

For us, every step has an additional purpose.

We are walking and traveling for the scleroderma community — for the people living with this complicated disease, for the families and friends who support them, and for the hope that one day there will be better treatments and, ultimately, a cure.

Some days the steps come easily.

Some days they don’t.

But that’s part of what makes Jim & Sara’s Million Steps for Scleroderma meaningful. We aren’t just counting steps. We’re trying to turn those steps into awareness, encouragement, and support for a community that knows all too well what it means to keep moving forward.

A Very Good Ending to a Very Good Day

By the time we finished our temple journey, we were ready for a place to rest.

And we found a good one — an affordable hotel with dinner and breakfast included and, most importantly, a comfortable bed waiting for us.

After ten temples and 13.9K steps, that bed looked pretty wonderful!

Rain is in the forecast again, and the weather may make tomorrow interesting. But for tonight, we’re calling it what it was:

A good day.

Ten temples. 5.9 miles. 13.9K steps. A few fellow pilgrims along the way. And another day of walking for scleroderma.

One step at a time,

Jim & Sara Million Steps for Scleroderma

14 Miles • 33,000 Steps • 3 Temples • One Step at a Time for the Scleroderma Community

Day 17 brought us another beautiful day on the trail—14 miles and 33,000 steps through the Japanese countryside. The skies stayed overcast, but thankfully the rain held off, making it a perfect day for hiking.

Today’s route carried us through a peaceful landscape of rice fields, rural villages, mountain views, and quiet country roads, with three remarkable temples along the way. Every mile reminds us why we’re walking this Million Steps Journey: to keep moving forward and to shine a little more light on the scleroderma community—those living with this disease, their families, caregivers, researchers, and everyone working toward better treatments and, someday, a cure.

🛕 Temple 28 — Dainichiji

This temple is known for a spirit believed to have healing powers above the neck. After miles of walking, it was a meaningful place to pause, reflect, and appreciate the hope represented by these ancient traditions.

🛕 Temple 29 — Kokubunji

Known for warding off misfortune, Kokubunji gave us another opportunity to stop, take in the surroundings, and think about the challenges faced by so many in the scleroderma community.

🛕 Temple 30 — Zenrakuji

A particularly interesting stop because it encompasses both Buddhism and Shintoism. Two spiritual traditions sharing the same sacred space—a fitting reminder that different paths can still lead toward a common purpose.

And, of course, Sara the Owl was along for the journey! 🦉💚

One of the special moments of the day was stopping to have our goshuin (temple stamp) hand-inscribed. There’s something wonderful about receiving something so personal after walking all those miles to reach the temple.

From lush rice fields to ancient temple gates, today was a beautiful reminder that a journey is made up of individual steps.

33,000 steps today. One million steps is the goal. And every single step is for the scleroderma community.

🦉 Jim & Sara

Walking for awareness. Walking for hope. Walking toward a cure.

This morning we began a steep climb to Temple 26, Kongochoji. The path wound through a beautiful, dense forest, but there were plenty of moments when we were reminded just how far down the mountain side, we were. One photo that we took gives a pretty good idea of the drop from the trail! 😳

There is also a fascinating story connected with this temple. Two saints are reportedly in hiding here—one said to possess great wisdom and the other great insight into enlightenment. Perhaps they were hiding because they knew pilgrims would be too busy catching their breath to find them!

And then came Temple 27, Konomineji—a spiritual checkpoint and, according to us, a physical checkpoint as well! If we thought the climb to Temple 26 was difficult, Konomineji had a message for us:

Up. And up. And up. And up…

The legs were definitely feeling those 356,000 total steps today.

But the reward at the top was spectacular. We reached a beautiful garden filled with carefully shaped greenery, enormous moss-covered rocks, and cascading water. The water here is said to have curing powers. We were more than happy to pause, enjoy the no peaceful setting, and let nature do whatever healing it could. After a day like this, our minshuku—which looked a little questionable from the outside—turned out to be a pleasant surprise on the inside. Everything was well maintained, and best of all, the bed had a firm mattress. At this point, that qualifies as a luxury hotel! 😂

We are now relaxing across the street from the ocean, listening to the waves and enjoying the chance to put our feet up.

The steps continue to add up, but the steep climbs are making every one of them count. 356,000 steps toward one million, one temple, one hill, and one determined stride at a time.

We keep walking not only for ourselves, but for everyone in the scleroderma community. Every step represents hope, awareness, resilience, and the belief that together we can keep moving forward.

Jim & Sara

Today was an adventure from the very beginning!

Our destination was Muroto and Temple 24, Hotsumisakiji, more than 80 kilometers from where we started. We had decided to take the train and the DMV half-rail, half-bus route.

Well… Mother Nature had other plans.

Because of the rain, the train was canceled. Yes, canceled! So Plan A quickly became Plan B: three buses, a little improvisation, and the kindness of a minshuku owner who helped us along the way. Sometimes on this journey, you just have to roll with it!

During all this traveling, we met another pilgrim from Holland who has now joined our group. One of the wonderful things about the Shikoku pilgrimage is how quickly strangers can become fellow travelers. Everyone has a story, and everyone is making this journey for their own reasons.

Eventually, we all arrived in Muroto and made our way to Temple 24, Hotsumisakiji, along with the surrounding caves believed to have been occupied by Kobo Daishi.

The area around Temple 24 is fascinating. There is a unique rock where, if you strike it just right, the sound is said to be heard by the spirits of those who have passed away. Whether you believe the legend or simply enjoy the mystery of it, standing there makes you stop and think about all those who came before us.

This area is also a UNESCO Global Geopark site. With the powerful waves constantly crashing against the rocks, it is said that this is a place where you can hear the Earth’s heartbeat. Standing along that coastline, with the waves pounding against the ancient rocks, you can certainly understand why people describe it that way.

But we weren’t done walking yet!

From Temple 24, we walked approximately 7 kilometers to our next destination, Temple 25, Shinshoji. After the unexpected transportation adventure earlier in the day, it felt good to get back on the trail and simply put one foot in front of the other.

Shinshoji is a temple with a strong connection to the sea, where fishermen traditionally pray for protection. Given that our journey through this part of Shikoku follows the coastline, it seemed like a particularly appropriate place for us to visit.

By the end of the day, we had logged 8.2 miles and 19,400 steps.

And then came our next adventure: our accommodations!

Tonight, we’re staying in an older minshuku, a traditional Japanese family-run guesthouse. I’m still trying to get used to the futons, the shared bathtub, and—perhaps the biggest challenge of all—the slippers.

There are slippers for inside.

Slippers for outside.

Slippers for the bathroom.

And apparently, none of them were designed for my big feet! 😂

But that’s part of the adventure. We’re learning, adapting, laughing, and continuing to put one foot in front of the other.

Living with scleroderma means we know that some days our bodies have their own plans. Today had plenty of unexpected twists, but we kept moving forward.

8.2 miles.

19,400 steps.

One canceled train.

Three buses.

One very kind minshuku owner.

A new pilgrim from Holland.

Temple 24.

Seven kilometers on foot.

And Temple 25.

Every step brings us closer to our million-step goal, and we’re grateful to have the scleroderma community walking alongside us.

Time to hit the sack!

Ultriera,

Walking for the Scleroderma Community — Shikoku, Japan

156 miles. 356,000 steps. And still climbing!

Our journey of a million steps continues, and today the steps came with a serious vertical challenge

Change in plans! There is concern about a typhoon, and we definitely didn’t want to get caught in the mountains. So, Sara, my Japanese companion, and I decided to use transportation to visit several of the temples together. It’s all part of the adventure!

Today we visited:

⛩️ Temple 20 — Kakurinji, known for its cranes.

🌳 Temple 21 — Tairyuji, a beautiful temple complex with an engineered ropeway and enormous trees.

💧 Temple 22 — Byodoji, a temple noted for its water, which is believed to cure all kinds of sicknesses.

💰 Temple 23 — Yakuoji, famous for its “money steps,” where visitors leave money on each step for good fortune.

Pleasantly, Sara and I once again have a private room tonight!

Every mile and every step is part of our journey to raise awareness for scleroderma and support those living with this disease.

If you’re able, please consider donating to the Scleroderma Foundation of California and supporting our journey.

Thank you for walking this journey with us!

Jim & Sara ❤️

Rain, Road Adventures & Temples 24 and 25

Jim & Sara’s Scleroderma Million Steps Journey

Another big day on our journey through the Shikoku pilgrimage—and another 11.8 miles and nearly 28,000 steps added to our Million Steps for the scleroderma community!

Today we headed out of Tokushima city proper, following the pilgrimage route toward two more temples. There weren’t many opportunities for pictures during the first part of the walk, but the scenery gradually changed from city streets to quieter roads, greenery, rivers, and mountains. It was a beautiful reminder that this pilgrimage constantly moves between everyday Japan and places that feel deeply connected to centuries of tradition.

Temple 18 — Onzan-ji

Our first temple of the day was Temple 18, Onzan-ji. The temple has a connection to Kobo Daishi (Kukai) and a story involving rites that helped remove restrictions associated with women entering the sacred pilgrimage spaces.

One of the things that really caught our attention was the large pilgrim statue. Nearby, a mother-and-child figure created a particularly powerful image. Surrounded by the many figures and disciples, there was something about the scene that made the mother and child seem almost as though they could take on the whole world together.

It was one of those moments where a statue becomes much more than something to photograph. It makes you stop, look, and wonder about all the pilgrims who have stood in that same place before us.

Temple 19 — Tatsue-ji

We then continued on to Temple 19, Tatsue-ji, which was especially meaningful because the temple itself was our lodging for the night.

As we approached the entrance, we were surprised by the guardian figures. Jim’s first thought was that they looked a little like Disney characters standing watch over the temple! They certainly added a memorable—and slightly unexpected—welcome.

But the most meaningful part of our stay at Tatsue-ji was participating in a Buddhist ceremony.

The ceremony focused on heritage, descendants, remembrance, and the importance of not forgetting those who have gone before us. We were reminded to honor them and to pray for those who have passed. After so many days of walking this ancient pilgrimage route, the message felt particularly appropriate.

A pilgrimage isn’t just about the miles under your feet. It’s also about the people who walked before you, the people walking beside you, and the people you carry with you in your heart.

And after 28,000 steps, we were very happy to discover that another good dinner was waiting for us! 😊

11.8 miles. 28,000 steps. Two more temples.

Every step of this journey is helping us raise awareness for scleroderma and support the incredible scleroderma community. Some days are physically demanding, some are spiritually moving, and some—like today—are a little bit of both.

Thank you for walking with us, cheering us on, and helping make every one of these million steps count.

Jim & Sara

Walking for the scleroderma community, one step at a time. 💙👣

Sara, naturally, found her own way to interact with the surroundings. She climbed up on a statue, although she wisely stayed clear of the cleansing pool and its rather mean-looking dragon guardian.

After all that walking, climbing, exploring, and contemplating, we finally made it back to our room. And there was another little victory waiting for us: a real bed!

Except for the first night, this is only the second time on the journey that we’ve been afforded a bed. Sara looks pretty happy to be checking this one out.

Nine-point-one miles, 21.6K steps, four temples, rice fields, streams, sacred wells, dragons—and a bed at the end of it all.

Not a bad August 31.

By the end of the day, we had logged 12.1 miles and 28,400 steps.

Eventually, we landed at what might generously be called a rough-around-the-edges minshuku. It definitely isn’t winning any luxury-hotel awards, but sometimes on the pilgrimage you learn to appreciate the little things.

And this place has one very important feature:

A washer and dryer!

After 12 miles in the Japanese mountains, clean clothes may be the closest thing to luxury there is.

Tonight, will be about getting cleaned up, resting tired feet, eating something good, and getting ready to do it all again tomorrow.

The pilgrimage continues—one step, one hill, one temple, and one unexpected conversation at a time.

— Jim & Sara

Today was another unforgettable—and very demanding—day on our journey toward one million steps.

Our destination was Shōsan-ji (焼山寺), Temple 12 of the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage, dramatically perched more than 700 meters above sea level on a forested mountain ridge. Shōsan-ji is known as the first true nansho—a difficult-to-reach temple—and it certainly lived up to that reputation!

Knowing we had three sizable mountains and about eight miles of climbing ahead of us, we rose early at 6:00 a.m. and got on the trail. Even at that hour, the village was beginning to stir. We saw people out gardening and tending to their homes, and soon we passed a large cemetery stretching up into the hills. It was especially meaningful to see people carefully tending the graves of their loved ones. There was something peaceful about watching this tradition continue in such a beautiful mountain setting.

Then the climbing began.

And continued.

And continued some more! 😂

The forest was incredibly dense, with towering trees surrounding us in every direction. We kept climbing higher and higher, putting one foot in front of the other. For anyone in the scleroderma community, we know that a long journey isn’t always about how quickly you get there. Sometimes it’s about finding your rhythm, listening to your body, taking the moments you need, and simply continuing forward.

Today gave us plenty of opportunities to practice that philosophy.

Eventually, all that climbing turned into downhill—and what a reward that was. We followed a lovely mountain brook, listening to the soothing sound of the water rippling over the rocks. After hours of climbing and walking, that peaceful stretch of trail felt like a gift.

After more than six hours on the trail, we finally arrived at Shōsan-ji. Reaching the temple felt especially satisfying after the miles of mountains that stood between us and our destination.

The temple grounds were beautiful and serene, surrounded by enormous trees and mountains. We also discovered some wonderful artistic touches along the way. We especially enjoyed seeing the beautiful live-edge wooden table, and Sara loved the delicate glass flowers. A refreshing drink on the temple grounds was very welcome before we started making our way back to the minshuku.

And then we looked at the numbers:

18.6 miles.

43,900 steps.

One more temple.

One more mountain adventure.

Every step brings us closer to our million-step goal, but this journey means more to us than simply watching a number climb. We hope our adventure reminds everyone in the scleroderma community that journeys don’t have to be easy to be meaningful. Some days bring sunshine and beautiful views; other days bring steep mountains and tired legs. But each day offers another opportunity to keep moving forward in whatever way works for us.

Today, we climbed mountains, followed a stream, reached a sacred temple, and added nearly 44,000 steps to our journey.

Wishing our entire scleroderma community a little piece of the peace, strength, and beauty we found on the trail today. Keep putting one foot in front of the other. ❤️

— Jim & Sara

On the road to one million steps 🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️🙏

Today we walked 13.6 miles and logged 32,100 steps, bringing us to 11 temples on the Shikoku pilgrimage.

Each temple is similar yet different. We’ve begun to recognize the familiar features of the pilgrimage: a temple and shrine, Buddha statues, an osame-fuda tree, a bell tower, lodging, beautiful gardens, and water—sometimes with huge carp swimming peacefully nearby. There are also many ceremonial practices, including incense, prayers, and the ritual washing of hands and mouth before entering the sacred space.

Before entering the temple, Sara watched as I performed the ceremonial practice of washing my hands and mouth. It was another reminder that the pilgrimage is not simply about walking from one temple to another, but about slowing down and being mindful of each step and ritual along the way.

Last night was especially meaningful for me. I participated in a remembrance ceremony for those who have passed away from scleroderma, including our friend Nancy Gaza. I wrote a remembrance to honor those we have lost. The ceremony included wrapping a basket with a tree branch, burning incense, and lighting a candle.

We then bowed to different statues before placing our lighted candles in small plastic boats on an interior flowing stream. We watched the candles drift along the water while chanting and singing prayers. It was a beautiful and deeply moving experience, and having scleroderma woven into this pilgrimage makes moments like this especially personal.

The Kunadanjii Pagoda was impressive, rising beautifully above the surrounding trees. Its intricate construction and setting made it one of the memorable sights of our journey.

As we continued through the countryside, the abundance of rice fields reminded us of Italy. After so many miles on foot, it was refreshing to pass a couple of streams and enjoy the changing landscape.

Every day on the Shikoku trail seems to offer something new—a temple, a ritual, a landscape, or a moment of reflection. Eleven temples down, and the journey continues.

Ultreia!

Jim & Sara

Japan continues to surprise us at every turn—and today gave us a little bit of everything: ancient bells, endless rice fields, dragons, pilgrim statues, beautiful gardens, and a whole lot of walking!

We’re happy to report that Sara had a much better hiking day. Together, we logged more than 30,400 steps—about 12.8 miles! That’s a pretty impressive day on the feet. The humidity was definitely draining, though. Japan’s heat and humidity have a way of making every hill feel just a little steeper, so we were grateful for the breaks and the scenery along the way.

A Bell Tower and a Quiet Moment

One of our stops brought us to this beautiful old wooden bell tower. The craftsmanship is incredible—the weathered wood, carved details, and enormous bronze bell all feel like they belong to another era.

And there was Sara, right there beside it, taking it all in. These are the moments that make the miles worth it.

Rice Fields as Far as We Could See

Then the scenery changed completely.

We found ourselves walking alongside a huge, brilliant-green Japanese rice field, with mountains rising in the distance and traditional homes scattered along the horizon. It was one of those views that looks almost too perfectly Japanese to be real.

After all the temples, statues, and stone paths, there was something wonderfully peaceful about simply standing beside a field of rice and watching the breeze move through it.

Sara Is Not Afraid of Dragons!

We also encountered some seriously impressive dragon imagery.

Now, if you know Sara, you know that a little fire-breathing mythical creature isn’t going to stop her. 😄

This dragon sculpture was dramatic, intricate, and surrounded by smaller Buddhist figures and offerings. Sara stood right in front of it—not afraid of dragons! and apparently decided that 30,000-plus steps were enough adventure for one day without letting a dragon intimidate her.

Walking the Henro Path

We also came across statues representing henro, the pilgrims associated with Japan’s famous Shikoku pilgrimage tradition.

There is something especially meaningful about seeing these figures while we’re doing so much walking ourselves. The pilgrimage tradition is built around perseverance, reflection, and putting one foot in front of the other.

That’s a pretty good philosophy for us, too.

Some days the body cooperates. Some days it doesn’t. Some days the humidity takes a lot out of you. But you keep moving, take the breaks you need, appreciate where you are, and keep going.

A Garden Worth the Miles

And then there was this garden.

Japanese gardens have a way of making you slow down without asking you to. Carefully shaped pine trees, rocks, water, lily pads, flowering trees, and perfectly placed paths all come together in a scene that feels both natural and incredibly intentional.

After walking 12.8 miles, finding a peaceful garden was pretty much perfect.

One Step at a Time

Today wasn’t just about the mileage.

For us, every step is a reminder that living with scleroderma can mean adapting, pacing yourself, celebrating the good days, and appreciating what your body can do.

And today, Sara did a lot.

30,400+ steps.

12.8 miles.

A bell tower.

Rice fields.

Henro pilgrims.

Dragons.

A spectacular Japanese garden.

And a whole lot of memories.

The humidity may have tried to win, but Sara wasn’t giving it the satisfaction. ❤️

Help Us Keep Fighting Scleroderma. If our adventures have inspired you to take a few extra steps today, we hope you’ll consider taking one more step for the scleroderma community.

The Scleroderma Foundation of California works to empower the scleroderma community through support, education, and research, and donations help expand those efforts and reach more people affected by this disease. (Scleroderma Foundation of California)

If you can, please consider making a donation:

Donate to the Scleroderma Foundation of California

Every contribution helps.

From Japan, with tired feet, grateful hearts, and plenty more miles ahead—

Jim & Sara ❤️🇯🇵

Today we started in Kii-Katsuura, where I finished my Kumano Kodo, and began the first day of my Shikoku pilgrimage. Getting to Ryozenji Temple took a train, a ferry, and a bus. The ferry was an interesting experience, including floor seating. Only 8k steps and 3.4 miles during travel

At Ryozenji, we tried to follow some of the Buddhist traditions—bowing, ringing the bell, lighting candles, and burning incense. I had the temple calligraphy added to my pilgrimage book, or Nokyocho. I also placed my scleroderma prayer/devotion slip at the temple and tied one to a tree while Sara kept watch.

We found my Henro, the Japanese word for a pilgrim, House to stay and stopped at Lawson, a small all-purpose grocery store, before settling in for the night.

Tomorrow, we head out early for the next temple. There are 88 temples on the island, so we have a long way to go. The plan is much more steps tomorrow reaching 5 temples and stay overnight in the last.

Ultreia!

Jim & Sara

Since Pope Francis has designated 2025 a Jubilee Year and a Pilgrimage of Hope. I will try to add text regarding Hope as an important part of our lives. Hope is one thing that can help us through the darkest of times. We made it to the starting point, Grand Saint Bernard Pass after a bus drive from Prescott to Phoenix AZ, plane to Washington DC, Zurich, Geneva, train to Orsieres, and bus drive. Hurray! ~20 hours later. Arriving at the Pass we were awaken by the beautiful lake surround by the mountain. Dory and I posing. The Saint Bernard digs. Attitude 8114 ft. We concluded the day with a communal delicious meal with 30 pilgrims talking of the wonders of their via Francigena journey. Starting point tomorrow Dory and I will cross over Switzerland to Italy making the steep descent from the Summitt tracing the route taken by pilgrims and popes, common hikers, and leaders of countries even Napoleon’s army.  

 We had a good meal the night before with pilgrims from France and one from Australia. Well-rested although snoring continued. The pilgrims were asked to stay for breakfast; something I normally do not do since I like to start early. But we had a cup of coffee with bread and jam. The hike started out beautiful. Walking high in the Alps along the Ru Nuef, the irrigation channel. We looked down on the villages below. Uniquely we ran across a memorial of the Virgin Mary.  Eventually we made it to the town of Aosta, noted for Roman Ruins of a city started in 1 B.C. Dory and I landed in an Ostello ran by Cistern Nuns and fortunately we got a lovely single room looking up the mountains and, also, seeing a glimpse of a Romain arc. Later we were able to see the city main square and Romain arc and city being uncovered.   Unfortunately, we went to reserve a bed in the next stop but found out eight places to stay were booked. Surprise!! With the help of a couple of nuns over the course of a few hours we were able to book places to stay. Not ideal but a plan. Learn from yesterday, live for the day, and hope for a better tomorrow. Modified Einstein. Ultreia. Dory and Jim.               

We started late since we were working late on schedule and bookings. We started out walking in the opposite direction to reach a way to get over the highway crossing the city square. There were Romain ruins and some murals reflection the 1 A.D Roman. We immediately started hiking up the mountain. This time on the opposite side. We got up over 1000 ft before walking a horizontal path looking down below. The path was nice with an irrigation channel on its side. Vineyards were nestled along the path as well. Always seems inviting with clear cold water running to stick one’s feet in. We even passed a rundown castle. Looking down at Nus, one can see into the valley below as the mountains seem to be getting lower. Nice and steep. Dory mentioned to me that although she not just optimistic but hopeful. Krista Tipplet, the writer, said “For me …optimism sounds like wishful thinking. Hope as a force and as a resource is realty based. It sees the darkness and takes it seriously. It sees the possibly of good and redemption and takes that serious and it’s a choice. An action that one needs to put into practice.”

Ultreia. Dory and Jim.           

Because of hostel availability, we had to make an adjustment to our schedule to find accommodations. We find a place to stay in Hône. We took a bus from Nus to Verres and got back onto the Via Francigena. Although the mountains were smaller, they were still impressive walking in the valley.  A beautiful hike along the river and amongst a few small towns. Several signs were posted along the trail, walks to inspire the world! A nice old church whose front door was open to see inside but protection by glass doors so as not to allow access. We experienced seeing a unique preserved Romain bridge, walked through the pastures before arriving at the village of Hône. But before Hone we could see in the distance a specular castle. As we got closer, we approached a church. Although many churches have been closed, to our surprise this one was open. It was the Parish of Saint Giorgio. The church was at least the third erected on the site. There were glass panel allowing us to see the remnants of two previous churches. Earlier reports say it may have been as old as 1413 with modifications in 1711 and latest 1897. On the altar was a detailed statute of Saint George fighting the dragon. Beautiful ceiling painting as well as one of the Madonna of Mercy. Dory also lit candle for family, friends, sacred Heart Parish and of course, the Scleroderma Foundation of California. If you can, support the foundation and Hope for a Cure. Aristotle said: “Hope is a waking dream.” 

Ultreia. Dory and Jim         

Slept in until 8 AM, packed and headed to a church up the hill at the next town. Thanks to the Catholic Map app I identified where the church and mass was. A lovely small 15 century church located next to a fancy hotel. The attendance was sparse, about 20 people. Hopefully it does not shut down. After mass, we came right to the trail. The trail started out next to a man- made irrigation canal with many stone canals coming down from the mountains. The trail mainly followed the river until we reach Mont-Saint-Martin. The trail mainly followed the river but deviated through several towns passing by some old churches but unfortunately were not open even of Sunday. As we came around a corner to my surprise was a small Arch way with a lava like stone walkway. Interesting. Next we made it to Mont-Saint-Martin where we came across a beautiful Romain bridge. This time amazing. The next miles were uneventful until reaching Ivrea. Although stopped at a picnic area to have a snack by the river. We found our Ostello next to the river. Named “Ostello del Canoe”. (Because, there was a competitive kayaking circuit, where people were testing their skills.) Performed my daily routine of a shower, washing clothes and doing some stretching before relaxing getting a soda and watching the river and a duck diving for fish. Across the ways was a big cathedral. 

Ultreia. Dory and Jim.

Left albergue early at 6:30 am with several other pilgrims getting up early as well. Some guides recommend over 37 kilometers but I decided on 13+.  It took awhile to get out of city limits and we went right into pastures. We tried the map app several times during the day but reception was poor. Worked out fine because there was via Francigena signage that pointed the way. Passed through a forest of aligned trees before going through several small towns. In these small towns, there was a billboard recognizing those who passed away during the year. A Roman ruin popped up in the mid of nowhere. There were some grapes for the picking. Getting closer to Viverone there was a lake in the distance. Made it to Vicerone but again no internet. Found out B & B staying at was up a hill. Ugh! And place was closed until I got a message through. The B&B looked “third world”,  but appeared clean and had a bed. In the evening, we had another pilgrim. Interestingly the pilgrim was a Italian priest on vacation hiking to various churches. Learned to cook macaroni in a microwave. Aristotle: Hope is an awaking dream. 

Ultrea Dory and Jim.

Left early between 6 and 6:30 in AM in order to beat the heat. Down the hill I went. I was that pleased that my Wi-Fi was working and got right on the trail. Most of the day was going from pasture to pasture. I enjoyed that the irrigation canals. To my amazement I saw two pilgrims up ahead. Two senior Hungarian women on the via Francigena. We sampled pomegranates off the tree. Delicious. Just after meeting the two pilgrims, we ran cross sunflower fields. Mood uplifting! Another view of the path with a flowing irrigation canal and, along side the path, a nice pilgrim mural. Nice and calming. Onward in a backward route we crossed the highway and headed toward our destination Santhia. Santhia is a small town with the Omnious Church and city government building in the center. Upon a phone call at the cafe two people came to greet us and pointed out our accommodations. This a municipal donation Ostello. Great welcoming. We visit the large church named after Saint Agatha. A Grand church for such a small town. We lit candles. A market was close by to stock up for lunch and snacks tomorrow. While hanging out near the city center, I was asking questions about the city when the person asked me if I wanted to meet the MayorI Of course, we had a photo with her after explaining the Scleroderma cause. I am reminded of the song Imagine by John Lennon: “You may say I am a dreamer, but I am not the only one. I hope someday you’ll join us. And the world will live as one.” 

Ultreia Dory and Jim

Wow, who knew there were so many rice fields in Italy. But think about it as risotto is a popular dish in this area. Another specialty is cheeses. Instead of macaroni and cheese it is risotto cheese. We started walking with the Hungarian women but went ahead. Wrong move. Got in zone and went a ways before noticing they were not behind us. There was a turn I missed. To top it off my internet keeps dropping off. Trouble. Listening to Dory we kept on swimming headed to a turn through the rice field. We got so far before we realized we would have to go through the rice field to get back on path. So there we went through the field and up through ditch to get back on the path. Whew. Don’t want to do that again. Too much excitement. Once on path it was still mile after mile of rice patties with some people harvesting or later someone said they may be catching frogs. (Delicacy?) We also came upon a lovely small church dedicated to Mary Madera and the Francigena. Vercelli is a fairly large city so there was a fair amount of trekking before getting to the city town center. Never saw the ladies. Once there tried to get directions but best bet was to find a restaurant / bar to get internet and locate my Ostello. Waited for the Ostello to open at one of the city squares. Two big statutes. When the Ostello opened we found the ladies there. The Ostello is nicely running by a nice couple from the States, i.e. Louisiana. How about that? They also offered dinner and breakfast. During the evening we all shared Camino stories. Grand. Dory liked Emily Dickinson quote: “Hope is the thing with feathers that perches in the soul — and sings the tune without words — and never stops at all.” 

Ultreia. Dory and Jim. Don’t forget to donate to the Scleroderma cause!

Wonderful hospitarios. Stayed for breakfast as did the Hungarian ladies. Juice, bread with jam, and left over apple crisp. Left in the rain. Wandered out of town into the rice fields. Day of rice and rain. I mentioned Italians must really like risotto. Ladies took a photo of me and my make shift rain gear. Stopped to figure out how to get my water bladder working while the ladies took off. Then the thunder and lightning. Rice fields are not a good place to be. We took cover from the rain when we reached a small town of Palestro. Dory was in her glory. As soon as the rain died down, we were off. Out of town the path did not seem to have been used much. If you were not soaked before you were now. Got Robbio and started to search for the Ostello. Kept looking back but never saw the ladies again. They were off to the next town. Got to the municipal Ostello and got Dry and warm. So long fellow pilgrims, see you in Roma. In the square where I stayed, I found a Michelin star restaurant. Unfortunately it was closed I ate delicious pizza whose owner had a likely for route 66, California and Arizona. Hope in Hebrew means a “cord or attachment”. Everyone needs to hold on to something in their lives. 

Ultriea. Dory and Jim

Jim and Dory have traveled over 250,000 steps!

Started early today anticipating rain again. Before leaving Robbio there was a small church which was known to house pilgrims in the past. We then reached the small village of Nicorvo after about 3 miles. Soon enough we reached a pasture with tire tracks and some gravel which eventually turned into a tall grassy path. So much for dry shoes. There were us and the herons who policed the fields. There was a hiccup with a sign or so missing, but I had gotten the gps map working. Rice Fields on rice fields with an occasional corn. When getting closer to our destination of Mortara we saw a lovely via Francigena mural indicating km to Rome and Canterbury. When we reached Mortara we headed to our Ostello. We stopped to see one of the churches and we noticed the two Hungarian ladies. Not sure how I caught up. We talked with them and I decided to go to the next town with them that is with her donkey and dog and artist.  After we made a 2 km trip to Basilica where they had just start mass. We stay to get the blessing. Quite amazing statutes. (Photo 8). Most of the history is captured in the churches. When mass was over it was dinner and a gelato. During the hike we saw the sun peeking through, hoping that glitter turn into a bright sky. Time for bed. Lights out. 

Ultriea Dory and Jim.

It was easy to get out of the city and into the pastures, walking the path along a large irrigation canal. Came across a large concrete cross out of a large cemetery. Several small villages were passed, but no cafe or bar for my orange drink and pastry fix. More rice and corn fields but less of them. Closer to Pavia we approached a wide river. We walked alongside the river for some time. There was a street mirror and one of the ladies took an unusual picture of us. In Pavia we are housed next to a small church and conveniently offers mass in the evening. A longer day tomorrow. Pavia had the closed main city streets for shoppers, mainly tourists. In the center of the city was a huge basilica. Old and battered on the outside, but the interior was totally redone. Robert Schuller: “Let your hope, not your hurts shape your future.” 

Ultreia Dory and Jim.

Early to rise. Worked our way through city. It was about a mile or two before a trial. Up we went. Second hill was even worst. But as we said before you can not get the amazing views if you don’t pay price of hiking up a hill. I missed a couple of turns but got back on track. Then came a dangerous downhill that was not maintain with a a lot of foliage across the path on slippery rocks. Whew. Then road walking until we got closer to Lucca where there was a gravel bike path. Lucca is a beautiful walled city. Picture perfect. Even a restaurant with a pilgrim’s menu. Yum. Asking myself today how is hope differ from wishful thinking. Has it something to with belief and faith? Is it an internal spark that propels us to action? Is there a transformation from a deep belief. Hope is a bridge from desire to realization. Hope inspires mobilization, inspiration and transform. Communal hope seems to amplify. Francigena Ultreia Dory and Jim. Don’t forget to donate to the Scleroderma Foundation of California.

Short day walking on roads and bike path out of the city of Lucca into Altopascio. Captured couple of photos of the wall as we walking out of the city. Stop at a couple of small villages but largely industrial out Lucca. Walk with two Italian ladies starting out on the via Francigena in Lucca. Arrive early awaiting for Ostello to open. Gathering of pilgrims good. Although a large part of the hike was through an industrial area, it was FLAT! Since I live in Arizona I wondered about native Indians and their views on hope. There is a website on hope and native Americans but a story struck out at me was the Jumping Mouse, a legendary native Indian story. I got the great of it but when I get back to Arizona I need to read it’d. Ultreia Dory and Jim.

Suppose to rain. So putting on hiking bag wrapper. Long day but relative flat except last 1/2 mile getting up the hill to San Miniato. A little of everything happened. The first town we went through had a large running race that took people on the Via Francigena path. So it was us being passed by runners. The second town had an art and craft show again right on the Via Francigena. It was a winding entry into a small village before San Miniato before our climb. Of course once at the top the path to the ostello took us down into the valley. Old hostel. Manager said 4th century? Looking out of my ostello window and family party. All the pilgrims were well exhaust from the hike today. Today we try a pilgrims meal. Unfortunately when bring out Dory for communal meal she was not to be found. She must of come undone when taking off the bag on route. So Sad! Hope is that a young child find her! Ultreia Jim.

First light breakfast and started late. I feel a sinus infection beginning. Started to take antibiotics. Day was brighten some what by the sunflower on the balcony. The trail was amazing; we climb hill after hill seeing a picturesque views. Wow the views fantastic! Met a French woman who had the same pace as me. We pushed ourselves over the hills especially the last long hill into Gambassi Terme. It seems that all the towns are on a hill. Gambassi Terme was a town you might see in a magazine for Tuscany. Sat in a park listening to live music as it was played in the square. Very nice donation ostello. Stopped in small church to light candles for family, friends and scleroderma. Hospitality was great. There to please. Only pilgrim. Nice. Still regretting losing Dory but pushing forward. We can not change what happened so hope must focus on the future. We can drown in hopelessness but what Dory would say we need to swim toward hope. Ultreia. Jim. Don’t forget to donate to the scleroderma foundation of California.

Short but challenging down from Gambassi over several hills before up to San Gimignano. Sinus acting up. Started with sunflowers in the hallway. Many picturistic views on top of hills. A lot more pilgrims on the trail. A lot more seem to be on bikes. Bikes Formed a line along the narrow roads. Seems dangerous? Then walled city of San Gimignano. One of the top touristy places on the route. Walked towards the two towers that we saw from our room in Gambassi. I was wondering who is attributed to identifying scleroderma. Who would have know it was Hippocrates. A Italian doctor gave more description in 1700s and name came about in 1836 by the Italian Fantonetti. Two decades and no cure? Ultreia. Jim

Let early to get out of city still congested from sinus infection. Picturistic walk observing ripe grape and olives. Italian villas off in the distance. More animals in pasture cows and sheep. Ran into a bit of a problem when I could not find a bridge navigator said was there and wasn’t?? Look closely at maps at that point and found and bridge was further done stream. Thank God. Got back on track. Walked past a castle which was being renovated. Then Followed a walking / bike path into Monteriggioni. Did I forget to mention another hard climb to the wall city? Much Smaller than Lucca and San Gimignano. Ostello relative full with some same faces but a group of younger Italians only gonna few stages to Siena. Group photo at a communal dinner. Spread awareness of Scleroderma. Italians, French, Austrians at dinner. Thought about “What does hope for a cure mean?” Living without fear of death or rearranging your life because of a diagnosis one can not control. Cure means the ultimate treatment goal. Cure is a remedy that once it’s gone it wouldn’t come back. A cure also means peace of mind. If we don’t have a cure do we know the treatments. Treatments of medicines, procedures or therapies and combinations. Scleroderma symptoms are numerous such that is recommended that the patient become an integral part of the treatment problem. Talking and coordination are vital. Ultreia. Jim.

Not a particularly long walk but experienced a unique castle, race horse, a memorial, and a wonderable cathedral. Hike was mainly a dirt road until one got to the city and city streets. There were horses eating some hay next to a home race track. What type of racing not sure. Of course a nice steep hill. A number of people praised the city of Siena but I found it massive and confusing. Walked city and many tourists. Confusing with narrow streets and tall buildings. Can not get any sense of direction without Google maps. Maps guided the way through the walled city’s entry and to the brand new ostello. Market close by. Gelato dessert. The cathedral was massive and ornate. Inside grand with Italian art including statutes of saints by Michelangelo. My hope reflect comes from the Siena cathedral. A floor mosaic depicts Hope. (Photo) Hope does not disappoint. Catholics characterize Hope as an anchor. Ultreia Jim.

Quietly got of town while the sun rose. Went through several arched gates before descending into the valley and farmland. Saw the “inspire the world” sign for the first time in a while. There were also Roman museum pieces scattered as we got closer to Pont D’Arbia. Plowed farmland after farmland. Weather nice but hot. Getting out early to avoid the heat over 80F. The evening was enjoyable with the small city celebrating harvest with food and entertainment. Highlight evening. Great food and music. Thought: what animals do you associate with hope? Dove, firefly, crane, phoenix, seagull, and butterfly. 

Ultriea Jim.

Early start with Canadian couple who we met last night. Temperature, as yesterday, expected to reach 88F. As the sun was rising, we could see a misty layer in the area below us. This day has rolling hills. Several wineries were passed during the day. We ended stopping at one and ate a snack in the courtyard. Onward up and down. Last hill to town about 2 miles up. Relatively new ostello. Another town celebration tonight. Saturday of course but poor pilgrims need to go 19 miles tomorrow and temperature will be up to 88 F. I thought I look to songs that deal with Hope. A couple that I like were “Hope” sing by Arlo Parks; “A Change is going to Come” sang by Sam Cooke; “Carry On” by Norah Jones; “Don’t Give Up” Peter Gabriel. 

Ultreia. Jim

We knew it was going to be a long day. I had my backpack transferred with the projected 20+ mile journey. This was a day of hills. One walled city after the next. All fortresses. We are arrived at Radicofani. One interesting event along the way is that we meet several hunters and heard shots throughout the day. We even saw several deers early in the field. One on the run even passed in front of me on the path surprising a hunter. Reportedly provided protection for the via Francigena between Tuscan and next province Lazio. Saw an old wine crushing machine. Did I say again there were hills. Wow! Very challenging. Prehaps toughest on the via Francigena. I found these verbal illustrations about hope. Hope is a “porcupine hugging a cactus”. Emily Dickinson: Hope is the thing with feathers that perches in the soul and sings the tune without words and never stops at all.” There is an art painting by Watts titled Hope. But I was not inspired? What you think? I forgot about Frank Sinatra’s High Hopes which I enjoy. I’ll be singing the tune on the hike tomorrow. 

Ultreia Jim

Misty start down from the mountain. Almost 4 miles. The nice views were not seen for a couple of hours. We caught the sun trying to poke out of the clouds. We heard the sounds of gun fire throughout the morning as well as saw a couple of hunters. A cinder road was mainly used except half way when we had to walk the road. We did have the option of a second route but 4 kilometers more. Fortunately, there was an off-road paths. Before town there was a nice outdoor store as we sat down and talked as other pilgrims joined in. The places we were staying did not open until 3PM. Of course, the next town was on another hill. Climbed we did into the city. Did you know there is an Alfred Tibor’s statute of hope in Oregon in support of cancer? Women releasing three dove; man, woman, and child. 

Ultreia Jim.b

Day off. Getting organized for upcoming last 100 kilometers.  I had lost my toiletry bag, rain pancho, etc. Fortunately the are Chinese run convenience stores more robust in selection then Dollar Tree.  You can find almost anything in them. There was also a Flea Market! I brought a light rain jacket. I roames the city getting supplies. I also visited a nice small castle, the smallest I have seen.  The town had a nice cathedral with catacombs.  The view was great.  Rain started in late afternoon and continued off and on. Tomorrow is suppose to rain as well. Ugh.  Hope: The catholic jubilee 2025 is to inspire hope with those with hardships.  Hope is not meaningless wondering but has a definitive purpose.  As a pilgrim it is easy to take the road most traveled.  It is hard when the path is not clear.  Ultreia Jim  Don't forget to donate to Scleroderma Foundation of California.